Tanzania: The Tarangire Edition.

It was a long drive in. As we got closer to our turn off point, we realized we needed to stop for petrol because we wouldn’t be able to get any for a couple days. The problem… There was not a petrol station anywhere in sight. We had to turn back. At this point, we were ready to kill each other. It was just one of those days… I felt Brad didn’t listen to me or think things through, so here we were rerouting, wasting time, etc. It was nothing short of classic marital nonsense.

So with our journey slightly rerouted, we searched for a petrol. We found a spot, but they didn’t accept credit cards, so we decided to check one more station… …and, naturally, they didn’t accept credit cards either.. We were at a loss and just decided to bite the bullet and fork over more of our cash. We didn’t have a choice. We were burning through our cash faster than we knew was possible. This was a major unexpected problem we were having in Tanzania.

Back on track, we followed the long dirt road back to the Wildlife Management Area which was further back than the GPS made it seem. We wondered if we were on the wrong road, but decided to press on because we had no idea where else it could be. Our perseverance paid off, and we got there around 3PM, but we were not ready for the headache that we were about to experience. Brad got out to speak to the guard who insisted that we were supposed to get our permit back in Arusha. He refused to take payment there, and told us the only way for us to get through was for us to go back to Arusha for the permit. We were flabbergasted, given our experience at Lake Moshi, where the man took our cash without hesitation. NOTE: I wonder if the man at Lake Moshi, just pocketed it…  We wondered, could this day get anymore frustrating?

Young WarriorWe waited patiently as possible, and Brad insisted the man call our hotel to work out the details. After constant back and forth phone calls, the manager of our next hotel worked out a deal wit the guard that the hotel would pay for the permit, and it would be delivered the following day by a colleague in Arusha, but the guard had to let us through. He agreed. NOTE: Thankfully, this time wasn’t totally in vain; the silver lining to this mess of a situation was the pictures I was able to get of the Young Maasai boy dressed in his warrior costume. I was able to trade these photos for a bottle of water 1000 Tanzanian Shillings.

Finally past the gate, feeling agitated and simultaneously relieved, we pressed on. We thought we made it through all the obstacles for the day, and were finally ready to dropped our bags, relax, and unwind so that we could enjoy tomorrow. Unfortunately, an even bigger obstacle lay in our way. A river. IMG_1871-2I wish it were a joke, but it’s not. At this point, swear words were flying from my mouth, and we were feelng defeated and disheartened. We could literally see our hotel on top of the cliff across the river. We were envisioning the worst, such as a night without dinner and breakfast and sleeping in our car. Quickly, I tried to pull it together and plan. We got out of the car to try to examine the depth, thinking it might not be as bad as it looked. I was throwing in rocks the size of my head and sure enough it was a hard plop and they were gone… Brad volunteered to wade in and see how deep it was, but I was strongly advising against it because if I lost him to the river, there was absolutely nothing I could do. I had seen a sign for a hotel a little ways back and decided we should head there to try to call our hotel. We did just that, however, we hit another snag. IMG_1874When we pulled into the parking lot, we were dumbfounded. The place had burned down (I am cracking up while I write this, by the way). Was this situation real, we were wondering. It was straight out of bad dream. Brad took the lead, and headed to speak to the workers who were working on rebuilding the place. They sent for the manager, while Brad and I waited restlessly for about 15 minutes. We still hadn’t heard from anyone so Brad wandered off in search of someone who could help us. Finally, two people came over, and we were able to explain our dilemma. They tried to call our hotel, and while this was going on some of the construction workers ran off to the river to check the depth. We followed along in our 4×4 with the hotel management in the back seat.

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When we pulled back up to the river side, one of the workers was wading his way across the river. He was able to navigate all the way across on foot, and it never went past his hips, so we knew we would probably be fine. Our path was determined.

Once that man was back on our side, a car came charging down the hill to the water, and pushed its way through to us. A British chap hopped out of the vehicle and gave us the run down. He was the manager of our hotel, and came to our aid. He informed us that they had been yelling to us from the hotel, but we were never able to hear them.  Brad and I thanked the locals & hopped back in the vehicle, and followed our new guide across the river, to be led to our next restful location.  As we wandered up the hill and into the tall grass we were delighted to see elephants right by our hotel… NOTE: This meant there were rules… like, don’t walk anywhere alone at night. Stick with your Maasai guide. 

When we got there, the Tarangire River Camp, we followed our rescuer to the lobby area. We had a good chat about the river (it had appeared just a couple of days earlier because of all the rain), Tanzanian politics and tourism, and how difficult it is to do your own self-drive tour in that country,  then filled out our forms…and, next, we were ushered to our tent. The Maasai carried our bags for us, and led us down the dirt path to our little piece of heaven. We unpacked a bit and got ourselves organized before we went to wander the grounds.

IMG_1884We found our way to the viewing deck which overlooked the river we had to cross. We couldn’t believe the day we had. We were so grateful to be at camp and be able to let loose. We wanted drinks with dinner to help take the edge off, but with our cash situation being slightly dyer we kept it light. We enjoyed the incredible meal, and turned in early.

It was a great night’s sleep followed by an early morning. We were eager to get a jump-start on our day. We got our bags back to the car, and enjoyed a simple breakfast. We had to pay cash (cards weren’t accepted) for the remainder of tab which included our fee for the WMA gate and our beverages with dinner.

With everything loaded and ready to go, we were ready to cross the river again, and take on the challenges of the day. Thankfully the water level of the river had lowered over night, so navigating the water wasn’t quite as challenging.

DSC_0214.jpgWithin 20 minutes we were back at the WMA gate. Brad got out to see if we were okay to exit, but sure enough the guard would not let us through. We were beyoooond frustrated. Brad had the guard call the hotel and speak to the manager, who assured the guard that his guy was on the way with the permit. …but that still wasn’t enough. We were required to wait until the man with the permit arrived, despite showing him the proof that we paid the hotel for the permit. We discussed just going around the barrier and taking off, but we didn’t. We waited about 30 minutes, Brad kept going in and out of the office hoping the man would cave, but he was resistant. Brad contacted the man with the permit who assured him he was on his way and would be there soon… but “soon” seemed to be a loosely used term in this country. Finally, Brad called the hotel manager himself to see what his take was. His advice was exactly what we wanted to hear… just go… haha. So, we did. Brad told the guard we were leaving, quickly got back in the car, and we took off around the barrier. We were not going to keep playing the games. We had shown proof of payment and he had assurance, from multiple people, that it had been taken care of. It was out of our hands; we had to get on with our day.

Luckily, it was a short drive to Tarangire National Park. We got out of the car, had one last bathroom break, filed our paperwork, and paid the fees (they took card). We took the map and high spirits, got back in the car and went through the gate.

DSC_0543Tarangire took us completely by surprise. We were in the park for several hours. We took turns driving, and went down many differentroads in search of lions and leopards and cheetahs. That portion was all standard, but what got us was the insane amount of elephants. We saw hundreds!!! That is pretty much the only thing I even remember seeing in Tarangire: elephants. Old elephants, baby elephants, bulls, females, families, pachyderms… it was absurd. Several hours of our life were spent invading herds of elephants. I would stand out the sunroof filling, photographing, and of course, speaking to these beautiful, powerful, majestic animals.  There was one time we were even threatened by an elephant to back off. Don’t worry, we did.

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Thanks to you pictures, I can tell you that in addition to the elephants, we saw zebra, antelope, springbok, a variety of birds, giraffe, vervet monkeys and more. But, elephants were the only animal in the Big 5 group that we saw. Aside from the quantity of elephants we encounter, Tarangire wasn’t quite what we were hoping for, but we were, also only there for maybe 6 hours. I think with the right amount of time, we could of tracked more.  Here are additional images from the park:

We eventually decided that it was crucial for us to make our way out of the park, and get back on the road. We had to make our way to our next overnight location Gibb’s Farm, which sat on the exterior mountainside of Ngorongoro Crater.  It was about a 3 hour drive, and we wanted to make it in time to relax before the sun went down.

…to be continued.

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South Africa: The Johannesburg Edition.

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yes, that is an ostrich….

After a flight to Atlanta and then a grueling 15 hour flight to Johannesburg, I was there, and I knew that Brad was waiting on the other side of Passport Control. I couldn’t wait.

 

We found our hotel driver, which I had booked ahead of time because I wasn’t sure how safe it would be getting from the train station to our hotel (as we figured out later, it would’ve been fine). We were booked at The Capital Empire in Sandton.  We confirmed with our driver that we were safe to wander at night, so once we were settled into our room we headed back down stairs to go try to find dinner, and get some exercise. After a brutal total of flight times, my appetite was minimal, but I knew if we didn’t get something that I would be up at 4 AM feeling starved.

We headed out the door of the hotel and through the security gate, down and around the corner toward Sandton City, the mall. We wanted to find Mandela Square. Brad had been there once before, but couldn’t remember how to get there. We wandered down various streets all around the mall trying to figure out how to access it. The struggle was real. It felt like we would never get there. Finally, we found the back way in. What we later realized is that it would have been just as easy to get there had we entered the mall first.  Once we were through looking at the gigantic recreation of Nelson Mandela we began looking for a restaurant where we could get something fairly simple and easy. We settled on a Tasha’s Cafe inside where I got a grilled cheese, and Brad got a salad… The grilled cheese was good, but America’s are better & I make the best..  Either way, with full bellies, and absolute exhaustion, we headed back to the hotel to sleep. Thanks to Brad’s job, he didn’t have to adjust to a different time zone. I was the only one that would suffer!

africa-extras-008The next morning we were preparing for what we thought would be a full day. When I woke up (before Brad) I didn’t feel like laying there until he woke up, so I went to work out for about and hour. When I returned, he was still in bed so it gave me sometime to get showered and start getting ready with the hopes that we would be out the door at the same time. The first thing on the agenda was breakfast. It was not included in our hotel, so we had to find something. When we reached the end of the sidewalk outside the hotel, we went right. We wandered a little ways down the road, and found a very enchanting cafe that I believe was called the Tea Garden. They had indoor and outdoor seating. Naturally, we wanted to enjoy the beautiful outdoor weather and the environment. It reminded me a little bit of Alice and Wonderland or Disneyland. It was whimsical and we thoroughly enjoyed it.We proceeded to have some delicious omelettes and toast before we wandered the grounds a little bit.

A little bit after we continued up the road a bit to see what else was there. We found a couple other small cafes as possibilities for the next morning, but we realized that it would be a good idea to head back in order to get on with the next activity. We gathered our essential belongings and headed back toward the mall to the Thrifty car rental. Getting a car took an extensive amount of time, as it seems is the norm. FACT: Car rental companies and patience are two things that don’t go hand-in-hand.  

With both of us in the car – opposites sides of the car this time, and driving down what felt like the wrong side of the road… We were ready to take on British-influenced streets of South Africa in an attempt to get to the Cradle of Humankind. FACT: It is ranked as one of the best things to do just outside of Johannesburg, and I would say that it was definitely an interesting exhibit. It is great for the science-loving, fact hunting, museum enthusiast. For me however, I got a little bored by the end. There are only so many little information tags under each exhibit that I can read before it all turns into mumbo-jumbo about the same thing. I did enjoy the boat ride,  though… Yes, a boat ride… A boat ride exhibit of how the earth has changed over the millions of years. …and there was a spinning starry tunnel which was kind of trippy. TIP: I will say that I would recommend this to anyone who has a free 4-6 hours, and doesn’t mind driving on the opposite side of the road, unless you are used to Her Majesty’s way. It truly was an interesting experience that  would be fun for kids and adults…. If anything, you get some incredible views of the South African valleys when you are done. But as a whole, it was way more & better than I expected.

We had a fairly long drive back into town, and thankfully, it was easier getting back into the city than leaving it. We returned to the hotel to drop off our car (we needed it the next day), and went to find ourselves a tasty meal. We headed back in the direction of the mall, as that is where the action was. We had a late lunch at Wangthai where we both indulged in a some delicious Thai noodle dishes. We sat on the patio as well which sits on the second floor overlooking the square. It was nice to just be able to sit and relax for a little bit with out any further plans hanging over head for the day. But eventually the check came, and an obligation to move on.

We spent quite a while cruising through the mall, and checking out some of the shops. The mall felt like a giant maze filled with all the usual things, but some unique brands. A few hours later, we found ourselves hungry once again for an evening meal. We wandered all over and eventually discovered what I call “the best Indian food (aka Chicken Korma) I’ve ever had” (granted, I’ve never been to India) at a lovely restaurant called The Royal India.

Once again, un-adjusted from the jet lag, we headed back to the hotel for an early bed time. The next day was a big deal, and we were extremely excited about it!

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S.A. McDonalds deliver your food on a scooter… and American ones have two drive-thru lanes… lol

 

We were up and at’em. We were in the car for our 2 hour drive, but still needed food. Being the bold adventurers that we are, we stopped at a McDonalds along the way for a very quick and efficient breakfast composed of egg biscuit sandwiches. They were delicious as usual, and definitely cheap.. We were back in the car, quick as a flash, and were headed to Bela-Bela in the Limpopo province. What awaited us was way more than we we bargained for. We were headed to Bambelela to interact with Vervet monkeys, and learn about them and the organization that operates as a Vervet Monkey & Wildlife Sanctuary for the young and injured. FACT: I had a really hard time staying in contact with them when trying to schedule, for some reason they were not receiving my originals, so I ended up having to contact them from another email address.

 

Getting there, the dirt road was incredibly rough. I didn’t expect a dirt road, and neither did our compact vehicle. We made the best of it; well, Brad made the best of it. Eventually we reached the gate, where we gave our name and were let through. We followed the signs pointing us in the direction of the sanctuary, and it was quite an intriguing drive. There were several large private homes along the way that seemed like a dream to be in.  Eventually, at the end of the road we

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a young Baboon

found Bambelela, a big giveaway was the large amount of monkeys running all over the grounds. Not just Vervets, but also Baboons.  We were pleasantly surprised to see that we were the only guests there (…and it stayed that way). Once we were out of the car we were greeted by Sue. She was great to “work” with. She was very pleasant and informative. You could tell that she was truly passionate about her work, as well as the animals. After our informational tour, it was time. Time to get in the cage with the “cheeky, naughty” (as Sue calls them) youngsters. What a thrill. We removed anything loose or valuable and handed them over for the 15 minutes that we were in the cage. The little guys lived up to their reputation. africa-extras-041The amount of spunk that was jumping around was sensational. It was really something to have these tiny primates jumping all over from person to person. From 5 feet away you suddenly feel a gently thud on your body… At one point one crazy Vervet crawled up inside my shirt. and out the top. They were biting my wedding ring, and occasionally my fingers (all in good, somewhat gentle fun). They were completely fascinating by my bun of hair, and also felt the need to open my mouth, inspect the inside, and check my eyes for any issues… One little monster even stole my hair clip, which I had forgotten was there. The volunteer that was in the cage with us (also, our designated photographer), went to get it back by grabbing the monkey by the tail and offering it a disciplinary action (as would be done by an adult Vervet). As they instruct, you never take from a monkey, unless they know you are in charge, or else you’ll be engaging in a battle with an irrational creature.

Eventually, our play time came to a close, the bill had been paid & we were back in the car. Thankfully, I had packed hand wipes… We were filthy, and we even had bits of monkey poo on our clothing which we were desperately trying to remove with a pack of Wet-Ones. It was no-matter.. We had another wildlife encounter ahead, and as we found out it was also, a bit messy. TIP: Always pack hand wipes, they are a game change for the overly adventurous traveler.

From Bambelela we made our way back down the extremely bumpy dirt road to Adventure with Elephants. I had arranged an elephant encounter, where we could learn and of course interact with African elephants (yes, they are definitely different from Asian elephants & I will post more about that later on). When we arrived, we got checked in and had to wait for them to bring the elephants around, which seemed like the perfect time to take advantage of the bathrooms to try and remove the monkey-poo. Once I removed all that I could, we headed back to the patio where we were able to observe some natural wildlife on the grounds below.

Eventually, 4 large beautiful African Elephants & 1 baby made their way to their covered stand. They were put in their places, and we started from the right and began working our way left. With the first elephant, we got to see how intelligent the elephant was. First they introduced us by name. (I don’t remember her name). Then we each gave her a shoe. As she was instructed, and according to her smell, she was able to return each shoe to the correct individual. Next we got to meet the baby… one big baby. It was beautiful, but didn’t have much of an interest in hanging out with us. It wanted to hang out with mom. We got in a couple pets, and then decided to let it do it’s own thing, with mom. The next elephant we gave treats to, and got to learn a little bit of the basic elephant anatomy. We got to inspect it’s tail, touch the pads of its feet, and examine it’s eyes. Such big beautiful eyes.  Finally, we moved down to our last elephant. A very handsome fellow, who I believe was in charge of tricks. He offered us kisses from his trunk, sprayed us with water, and even kicked a ball back and forth. He was wonderful!

Here is my little Elephant Gallery, please enjoy, and disregard my monkey hair…:

africa-extras-053From their our tour came to a close… We watched the elephants wander back off to their side of the land, and within a minute or two we found Trouble, the adopted Meerkat who was taken in by the founders. He was much too busy hunting for bugs to want anything to do with us… It was unfortunate because apparently he is quite the socialite with guests… TIP: If you have the opportunity to interact with African elephants, I would highly recommend it. It is incredibly life changing to be able to see the grandeur, intelligence, and beauty of such a majestic animal.

africa-2016-053-2We stayed on the property for a while because we were waiting for our USB drive of photos that they took for us. While we waited, we were able to get washed up again, and just relax. While we waited we had the delightful experience of seeing a couple giraffes come up near the complex. We just watched them for a while, until we felt it was time to get back.

We hadn’t had a proper lunch, just snacks that I packed for the drive, and we were both feeling starved. When we got back into town, we decided to get cleaned up before we dropped the car off, that way once we were clean & changed out of our filthy clothes, we were able to head back over to the square from Thrifty. We went hunting for dinner, not literally, but couldn’t commit so we ended up back at Tasha’s for an easy meal before we just cruised the mall again. Eventually, we headed back to the hotel because we had to get packed. We were being picked up the next day by our guide for Krueger National Park, and he was going to be there relatively early.

The next morning proved to be a bumpy one. During getting ready, I had a little bit of an accident. My bottle of foundation (aka makeup) got knocked to the floor and smashed. Their was liquid and glass all over the hotel room floor, and thankfully there was no carpet (although, then it wouldn’t have broke). Anywho, I began to panic at the thought of going the next 2 weeks without it because I was not blessed with perfect skin… My survival instincts began to set in, and I quickly messaged Neil (our guide), and asked if we could delay our pick up time by 1/2 an hour. Once again, we headed back to the mall… but not just for makeup, for breakfast too. We found a really yummy cafe, Doppio Zero, near one of the entrances. The breakfast was really exquisite. TIP: Breakfast in Johannesburg is top notch. They know what they are doing. I knew we were on a mission, so as soon as the shops opened, and we were done with our food, we headed toward one of the “department stores” to quickly grab what I needed, and then get back to the hotel.

To our surprise, it actually worked out perfect because we ended up having to wait a little longer for Neil, than we all anticipated.

africa-2016-054-1LESSONS LEARNED: 

1) Sometimes even maps can’t help you find your way.

2) Dirt roads and compact cars don’t go together.

3) Monkeys shouldn’t be pets — much too frisky.

4) Makeup just shouldn’t come in glass bottles

5) I’m way too accident prone, to own small, frequently-used items made of glass.